December 2023

In December 2023 our humans went on a safari in Kenya, and we were invited to join them. This was a great chance to explore parts of the African continent. From the capital Nairobi, we would fly to Nanyuki to visit Laikipia and later fly to Maasai Mara for another safari. And we would finish off at the Diani Beach south of Mombasa. Boy, did we look forward this wild safari?

Check out the Google map with all the airports and airstrips we landed at.

Click each photo to enlarge

When Roger came across some gossip, that our humans were going to Kenya deep in Africa, he got all excited. We had never been on a wild safari, and Roger would love to see elephants, lions and hippos.

We left Dublin and stayed one night at the Hilton at Schipol near Amsterdam. Next morning we embarked on a huge Boeing 777 bound for Nairobi in Kenya. Kevin and Erasmus were both with us, and they were all excited.

En route to Nairobi, December 2023

Seated at 1A, we had terrific views of central Europe.
"McBear," Roger started teasing, "just out of curiousity, how many hours do you intend to sit here looking out the window?"
"Well... studying the world is exciting..."
Later, we flew over the Alps and the Balkans and could see wide and far. But as we reached El Alamein on the north coast of Africa, everything vanished into darkness.

It wasn't until 11 pm we arrived the Jomo Kenyatta Airport in Nairobi. Because of a long delay, our humans were worried that the drivers had got home. But no-no, they were still waiting, and thank God for that.

At 1 am we finally arrived our hotel, the Tamarind Tree Hotel. We had a huge room. It was a pity we had to get up 4 hours later, especially since it was a lovely hotel and they made some fab Kenyan coffee...

The next morning we went to Wilson Airport to embark on a flight that would take us north to Nanyuki Airstrip in the central parts of Kenya.
"Is that our aircraft?" asked Kevin.
"No, that's an Bombardier," McBear said. "We'll be flying a Cessna Caravan."
"Is it safe?" Erasmus wanted to know.
"Of course!" McBear said with conviction.
We arrived Nanyuki after a 40 minutes flight, enjoying the views. McBear was delighted - we had never flown a Caravan before. It was a small aircraft suited for small airstrips.

Nanyuki Airport, December 2023

We arrived the Nanyuki Airstrip and had time for some real Kenyan coffee at Barney's Cafe. Erasmus had never seen an airstrip so small before.
"Is this the terminal?" he asked.
"Well, with all the limitations in mind, I suppose you may call it a terminal. There's no bagage drop though..."
"Nor is there a passport control or a security check, so we don't get x-ray'ed." Roger added.
"Oh, and the pilots handed us our suitcases themselves..."

Our guide, Peter, picked us up and headed for the Ol Pejeta Conservancy. It is here the only two Northern White Rhinos in the world are kept in safety.

During the next couple of days we would be going on several game drives to explore the conservancy and hopefully see some great wild life animals.

On the way to the Kicheche Camp site, Peter stopped at this road sign: The EQUATOR! Wow, we rushed out to get our photographer to take a selfie of us. The line of bricks marks where the Equator runs East to West. Since it was awkward to sit on top of the bricks, we sat down on the side of it.
"So, where are we sitting?" Tom wanted to know. "On the northern or southern hemisphere?"
"Well... since the Sun will reach the tropic of Capricorn in about 10 days, the Sun must be to the south of us, and since the shadow that the Sun will cast, will be on the northern side of the bricks, I guess we must be sitting on the southern hemisphere..."
"Have the judges reached a conclusion?" Roger asked with a grin.
"Well," Tom responded and laughed, "I'm sure the judges will give McBear a 10 out of 10."

We arrived the Kicheche Camp site. Our humans were going to sleep in a huge tent, almost like a bungalow, wow.

Before the trip, McBear proposed we'd bring our own tent. When we tried to set it up, however, we encountered certain... eh, challenges.
"McBear, are you sure this is correct?" Tom wanted to know.
"Well... I, eh..."
"McBear, didn't you bring the manual?"
"Well, there never was a manual. When our human made the tent and we tried it out, it was all so easy peasy, so I never bothered to write a manual..."
In the end we gave up, and fortunately our humans invited us to stay with them in their tent.

The speciality of Ol Pejeta Conservancy is probably their rhinos. It was amazing to drive on dusty roads seeing rhinos roaming freely in the landscape.

We spotted a giraffe passing us. It didn't seem bothered by other presence...

In the evening it was time to explore more of the conservancy. Peter took us on a drive and we were able to sit on top of the Landcruiser and spot the wild life. Here we have spotted a giraffe.

Just before sunset Peter parked the Landcruiser at a secure place with open spaces. From the car he took a double layered cushion so we could sit elevated above the ground. He also said it was now time for the sundowner. Tom got all excited.
"Sundowner? McBear asked.
"That means time for a drink - with or without alcohol," Roger told McBear. He added:
"To keep us warm, of course."

Early next morning - we got up a 5 am! - we went out to spot more wild life. As we went down the dusty road, the sun was about to rise behind the mighty volcano, Mount Kenya. At 5,200 meters (17,060 feet), it's the tallest of mountains in Kenya. On the top, the volcano has some pointy rocks sticking up.

This day, we would be busy spotting wild life, wow. Here we are stopped near a rhino. One can see whether it's a black or a white rhino. The white rhinos are also dark like the black rhino, but they have a WIDE mouth, hence the name. Peter explained us all about the rhinos.

Peter stopped at a special enclosure, where the last two surviving nothern rhinos are kept and a breeding program has been initiated. The problem was caused by poachers killing the rhinos. But the conservancy introduced armed patrols with rifles, and since 2016 there has been no more killings.
"Good for them - and good for the rhinos." said McBear.

The conservancy has established a cemetery for rhinos. We read the tomb stones to learn about each individual rhino. It was sad but also a heart warming memory of the rhinos.

We stopped at another enclosure to say hello to Baraka, the blind rhino. He hurt his eyes in a fight and then suffered from cataract. But the keeper looks well after Baraka and Baraka follows the keeper.

After visiting Baraka, Peter took us to the chimpanzee enclosure, where the chimps have a refuge. The conservancy maintains a program to prevent female chimps from getting too many ofspring. But the latest addition to the tribe, Astra, was the result of an "accident".

The next morning we got up at 5 am - again! McBear had certain difficulties getting up. Before sunrise we found ourselves driving across the conservancy, until we reached a marshy area with several elephants - and a large eagle. Here, Peter stopped and set up the breakfast table. It was an amazing spot - no noise from the M50 motorway at home, only birds singing.

We went around the conservancy during the day and saw more elephants and giraffes, buffalos, zebras and gazelles. In the evening, Peter heard on the radio that some lions had been spotted somewhere. Peter headed on, chose a path and went straight over to a spot where two lionesses were lying fast asleep in the tall grass!

The two lionesses passed right behind the last Landcruiser and vanished into the tall grass.

Unfortunately, we had to leave Kicheche Laikipia the next day. Peter took us back to the airstrip at Nanyuki and we thanked him many times for some unforgettable days. From Nanyuki Airstrip, we'd be flying to the Mara North Conservancy.

The Kicheche Laikipia Camp has its own website: kicheche.com/kicheche-laikipia